Location & Local Info

Nearest Airports Clermont Ferrand (55 mins), St. Etienne (2 hours 10 mins), Limoges (1 hour 45 mins).

Nearest Train Station Montlucon (25 km).

Nearest Town Marcillat en Combraille (1 km).

 

The Auvergne, in the heart of the Massif Central has superb countryside and wildlife - rushing rivers, leaping chamois and swooping peregrine falcons, yet all the familiar pleasures of holidaying in France are here too - even beaches. Many of the lakes have mini 'rivieras' with safe swimming and unlimited watersports. There is also an abundance of lovely old towns to explore, some with castles and medieval lava stone houses like Besse. In the summer, many of these towns echo with the sounds of street theatre, classical, rock, jazz, and world music during festival week. Other attractions include the elegant spas like Vichy which offer casinos, fitness centres and fine dining.

 

In the countryside, village life is as seductive as any "Song of the Auvergne". Markets hum with the bustle of shoppers and the cries of stall holders selling excellent local produce nurtured by the warm southern climate and rich volcanic soil.

 

With two huge regional nature parks, the Livradois-Forez and the Volcans d' Auvergne, this is territory well worth exploring. The Sancy Massif is heaven for hikers; its cones, ridges, moors and ravines are criss-crossed with signed footpaths. Whether you go for a gentle ramble or a ten mile trek, the views are sensational. Striking profiles of the Puy de Dome, the most famous crater in Europe's largest chain of dormant volcanoes, and the Massif's highest peak, the Puy de Sancy, seem to follow you everywhere.

 

For those with a head for heights, there are fantastic summer bases in the mountains where you can swim, play golf, cycle to the higher ground or just relax. There is Le Mont-Dore, a spa and ski resort close to the source of the River Dordogne and Besse-Super- Besse, a medieval trading town with a custom-built ski station and summer resort. Nearby is the famous Pavin Lake which nestles in a remote volcanic crater and Le Lioran, another mountain sports resort in Cantal (famous for its Cantal cheese cowherds and their curious stone-built ‘burons’ (shelters)). Here you will also find, a rather more monumental piece of architecture - the Garabit Viaduct built in 1871 by Gustave Eiffel himself.

 

 

One of the most arresting sights of Auvergne is the town of Le Puy-en-Velay with its three dramatic rocky stacks topped with a church and statues. In the Middle Ages, every hilltop in the region was crowned with a fortress and many still survive. The Route des Chateaux traces castle design through the centuries, from formidable early strongholds to more refined Renaissance castles and gardens and the Bourbonnais mansions of the 17th century with their distinctive red and black brickwork. There is also an abundance of beautiful Romanesque churches, their perfect proportions and purity of line providing the focal point in many small towns. One of the most impressive examples is the magnificent Basilica of Notre-Dame du Port in the town of Clermont-Ferrand, a city in the very centre of France close to the Volcans d'Auvergne Regional Park. Along with its ancient streets, Renaissance houses and fantastic black lava fountains, you will also find a fascinating exhibition of Romanesque art at the tourist Office.

 

Further north are more mediaeval splendours. Montlucon, the gateway to the Auvergne has two intriguing museums, one devoted to traditional music, the other to art. La Louviere art gallery, on the Route des Chateau d'Auvergme is a splendid replica of the Versailles Trianon. Nearby, is the Neris Les Bains Spa with its Roman ruins and casino.

 

Auvergne may be far from the sea but there's no shortage of water - lakes, rivers and hot springs abound. The spas have a special atmosphere and a relaxing pace. Vichy, in the Bourbon Dukes Region, is the best known with its leafy parks, lively restaurants, horse racing and turn-of-the century charm. Follow the Spa Town Route to Saint-Nectaire, a picturesque village in the midst of the Volcans d'Auvergne Regional Park it oozes tradition. Surrounded by nature, you can work out, be pampered, have a swim. And then perhaps, a flutter at the elegant Hotel des Bains Romains, which specialises in health and fitness combined with good living. Or take to the hills and breathe your fill of fresh air; spend an afternoon bathing at Garabit or kayaking in the gorges of Sioule and Haut-Allier.

 

 

Food

 

Just as well there are so many opportunities for action in Auvergne, as it's a foodie's paradise. Scrumptious and plenty of it, is the theme. Robust local dishes like pork with Puy lentils and Potee Auvergnate, full of streaky bacon, sausage, potato and cabbage, make great eating after a day in the mountains. There is fine beef from Salers, Aubrac, and Charolais cattle, and no fewer than five appelation controlee cheeses - Cantal, St-Nectaire, Bleu d'Auvergne, Salers and Fourme d'Ambert. For pudding, there's Auvergnat Apple Pie, Bilberry Tart, Fougasse - a delectable local brioche - and exquisite wild raspberries.

 

Many of the best wines are made in too small a quantity to be well-known abroad. From the Cotes d'Auvergne, try Corent, Boudes and the appealingly named Chateaugay. From the Bourbonnais, there are the brilliant dry whites and the light, fruity reds of Saint-Pourcain are also well worth tasting. One thing is for sure: whether you're dining in a top restaurant or eating at a country fete, it's hard to resist the region's rich, traditional flavours.

 

 

Wildlife

 

Bring your binoculars and book of wild flowers as you're in for a treat. Kites, kestrels, buzzards and peregrine falcons, nest in the green summits of this grand landscape. If you're lucky, you might spot a white stork - they've recently returned to the Auvergne and several pairs are now nesting here. There are owls and egrets, kingfishers by the lakes, rock thrushes in the rocks and elegant goldfinches on the edge of the woods. You may also spot many rare species of plants such as the round-leaved Sundew which gobbles up insects, the Adromeda with its tiny pink bells, the spotted Cat's Ear and the Siberian Leopard Plant.

 

Restaurants: France is full of restaurants - there is a great variety from which to choose - from five star gourmet places to simple cafes. These are some of our favourite places.

 

- La Ferme Saint Sebastien at Charroux - Telephone 04 70 56 88 83. An excellent restaurant in a lovely medieval village with a renowned old-fashioned mustard shop which is a favourite place to visit. The restaurant is open all day for lunch, afternoon tea, and dinner. Very good service, beautiful food, and a lovely atmosphere. You need to book well ahead if you want Saturday dinner or Sunday lunch.

- L'Hirondelle at Louroux de Beaune - Telephone 04 70 64 94 42. This is a must! It is a small organic ferme-auberge run by a Dutch couple, Rolf and Helen, whose book on 'Living as a Farmer in France' is a best-seller in Holland. Unfortunately it's only in Dutch so far. However even if you can't read the book you can enjoy the food in their charming restaurant - the food changes daily depending on what is in season and much of it is from their own farm. It is a fixed menu, but with at least two entrées and two main courses, plus cheese and dessert it gives you excellent food and very good value. Open Wednesday to Saturday evenings at 8pm and lunchtime on Sunday at 12.30 pm. There is only one sitting, and the meal commences when all guests are present so prompt arrival is appreciated. It is very popular so booking is essential.

- Taverne de John in Montlucon - Telephone 04 70 05 74 80. One of our favourite restaurants in Montlucon. It's in the street leading down to the station, so there is plenty of parking. It's owned by a Belgian family so that means two things - one, they speak English well and two, they specialise in the most wonderful mussels. Their fish is great too and their pasta is home-made.

- L'eau a la Bouche in Montlucon -Telephone 04 70 03 82 92. This is something different. It's situated in the main street of the old town of Montlucon which is all pedestrianised. It's a tiny place run by Thierry and Fabrice and specialising in menus from the Haute Savoire region of France. Lots of fondues, both cheese and meat, as well as pierrards - which are individually heated trays made from stone on which you cook your own slices of meat (from beef to ostrich and bison) and vegetables.

- Le Gonfanon d'Auvergne - Telephone 04 73 52 32 04. A true family restaurant, with a fixed menu and times of dining. It is small and charming on a farm in Virlet - about 5k from the Chateau. They specialise in duck dishes which are exceptional in quality and from their own farm. All the courses (except for cheese and dessert) are made up of duck in some form or another and there will be no choice. The owners are very friendly and they sell their wonderful pates and foie gras in the restaurant. Usually open for Saturday and Sunday lunchtime and evenings from Wednesday to Saturday. Booking is advisable and confirming opening times is worthwhile as they can vary depending on the time of year and public holidays.

- Le Grenier a Sel at Montlucon - Telephone 04 70 05 53 79. This is the one of the most renowned restaurants in the region and is situated in the old part of Montlucon. The food is sophisticated and appreciated by gourmets. You will need to book ahead if you wish to sample the delights of Maitre Cuisinier Jacky Morlon.

- Le Splendid at Neris les Bains -Telephone 04 70 03 10 41. An excellent restaurant which is open all year round. It is situated on a corner near the park and opposite the Tourist Information Bureau. It has an interesting menu, they specialise in Tourne Broche, a method of cooking your own food at the table on a spit. Try it - it's great fun. The seasonal menu is good value for 3 courses. They also have a pizzeria next door where you can eat on the terrace next to a wonderful fountain or take away to eat under the trees in the lovely park next to thermal baths.

- Le Damier - Fontanieres - Telephone 05 55 82 35 91. A pretty little restaurant in a village about 30 minutes away on tree lined roads. It's actually in the next departement, le Creuse - which is renowned for its beautiful countryside. The menu here is fairly standard French country fare, but they do some lovely puddings.

- Auberge de Castel - Telephone 04 70 90 91 85. This is a simple but good restaurant in the beautiful little village of Chouvigny. A great place to eat if you are driving down the valley of the Sioule. The food is simple and well cooked and their chips are fantastic!

- La Table d'Antoine, Rue Burnel, Vichy - Telephone 04 70 98 9971. A lovely, elegant, restaurant with a very sophisticated menu for a reasonable price. It's situated right in the centre of the shops in one of the passageways running between the park in Vichy and the main shopping street.

- Au Petit Bourbonnais, Ste Therence - Telephone 04 70 51 78 63. An atmospheric bar and restaurant in this very pretty village which also offers a lovely walk down to a ruined castle. Unusually for the area, they are only closed on Tuesday so you can go there for lunch or dinner on Monday and Sundays. The food is simple but reasonable and they do excellent frites and a children's menu.

- Le Comptoir a Moustaches, Le Castel Hotel, St Gervais - Telephone 04 73 85 70 42. A stylish old-fashioned restaurant with a lovely drinks terrace. Food is excellent and the dessert trolley has an amazing and huge selection. They will offer you a taste of every dessert, if you can manage it. They are open on Monday evenings, unusual for the area.

- Auberge des Herons, Lapeyrouse - Telephone 04 73 52 01 73. A favourite spot for fishermen as the lake offers easy parking and access. A simple fixed price, and cheap menu. This is not gourmet food but simple and plentiful with very welcoming owners. It is also useful to combine a visit to Lapeyrouse nearby which also has a lake with safe bathing and play areas for children.

- L'Isallier, Arpheuilles St Priest - Telephone 04 70 51 07 88. A simple café-restaurant with outdoor tables and lovely views across the countryside in this small and pretty village. If you are visiting the honey farm nearby it is a good place to stop for a drink and not very far from the village of Marcillat off the road to Lapeyrouse and Montmarault.

 

Excursions: There is so much to see in this area from beautiful gardens to medieval villages and wild scenery. Some of our favourite trips are to:

- Le Prieure de Notre Dame d' Orsan - (Michelin map book page 135 E3). A fabulous place which has been recreated in the style of a medieval monastery garden. Whatever time of year you visit - there is always something to see. There is a small art exhibition, a beautiful shop selling garden related products, and a sophisticated restaurant. We go there via Herisson (Michelin page 136 B4) where we often have a picnic lunch. Then go across country to Culan with its lovely chateau, then on to Orsan via le Chatelet.

- Charroux - (Michelin map book page 152 C3). This is one of the most beautiful villages in France. Its medieval streets have all been completely restored and there are some interesting little shops and exhibitions of local art. There is a small museum and a world renowned mustard shop, open every afternoon, where you can buy all kinds of delicious things.

- You can combine this with a visit to Verneuil en Bourbonnais - another lovely village on the edge of the wine growing area of Saint Pourcain. The 'Caves' in the area are happy to offer you tastings and sell you their wine.

- Vichy: This is a charming spa town with sophisticated shops, hotels and salons de the. The opera house has an interesting programme throughout the summer, including some lunch time concerts which include lunch at a local four star hotel. There's also an international golf course and a race track with floodlit trotting competitions on several nights a week. You can wander round the shops, or take a relaxing trip on the river on one of the pleasure boats. There is also a wonderful church in the centre. Restored in the 1930's in Art Deco style, the extraordinary stained glass windows were made by two brothers and the wonderful mosaics were created by crafstmen from North Africa. You can combine Vichy with a picnic in the gorges of the Sioule – a spectacular drive along the banks of the river Sioule from Menat to Ebreuil.

- Lapeyrouse: This is a small village with a large lake and sandy shore which is ideal to take children for swimming. There is a cafe and good public toilets and a play area. The baker in the village does excellent bread and there is a small shop for picnic items for lunch. Turn right out of the chateau, right at the roundabout and out through the village towardsMontmarault. At the crossroads turn right and immediately left and keep on. At the next crossroads turn right into the village of Lapeyrouse and go through to the other side where you will see a chateau (private) and then the park and lake on your right.

 

You can drive down the motorway towards Montmarault, or across country to Riom - a spectacular little town - the main street of which is full of beautiful old buildings all carved out of the local black volcanic stone. You can drive from here to Volvic the home of the famous bottled water. It's possible to do a tour of the water factory during the season, or you could just enjoy lunch in the small square of the town overlooking the beautiful black volcanic fountain. As you leave the town, there is a sign for a small, old fashioned vineyard Domaine sans Tournoel which sells the local Cotes d' Auvergne wine. It's run by a charming old man who will take you down into his cellar to taste the wine and give you the history of wine making over the last one hundred years! From there take the D947 to Pontgibaud and then the D418 to Montfermy – a delightful little village set on the river. You can take a short walk from the bridge in the village to a small waterfall and flower filled meadows, a beautiful spot at any time of year. If you fancy a swim to cool down then continue up the D418 and where it joins the D62. Then go left and join the D19 direction St George de Mons and Manzat. You are heading for the Gour de Tazenat which is between Manzat and Charbonniers les Vieilles. Park on the road and walk to this spectacular swimming lake in a volcano. It can be busy at weekends and high season but we have had it to ourselves on week days.

 

Shopping: Marcillat has a good variety of shops. There is a butcher, a chemist, a wine supplier, a newsagent and gift shop, as well as two bakers. The two bakers close one day a week each on Monday (the nearest to the chateau) and Wednesday (opposite Casino).

- 'Casino' is a small but amazingly well stocked supermarket. It opens from 8.30am - 12.30pm then 3pm - 7.30pm. Sundays and Wednesdays are half day closing so they are open until lunchtime only.

- On Thursday there is a small market in the village square. You can buy very good fish there as well as fresh fruit and vegetables, farm cheeses and honey.

 

Banks: Credit Agricole in Marcillat is open on Tuesday and Thursday. However the cash till is available 24hours a day. To obtain entrance, you swipe your credit card in the door lock. You can obtain cash with your bank card in the same way as in England, and instructions can be selected in French or English.

 

Supermarkets: If you want a big hypermarket then Montlucon has several (town guide in the desk). Carrefour is the biggest (CLOSED Sundays) and has plenty of parking. It is in a covered mall with lots of other small shops including a pharmacy, a McDonalds and several other cafes. To find it - drive into Montlucon and at the traffic lights in the centre keep right and follow the signs for 'Ville Gozet' and A71. Keep going, the A71 branches off to the right, and you keep on the main dual carriageway, under the bridge and you will see the river on your right. You can see Carrefour across the bridge. Take the right hand lane to go over the bridge and then the entrance to the supermarket is in front of you. (Coming back, turn left out of the car park to the roundabout, take the next to the last exit and come back over the bridge (one way). Go straight on and follow signs for centre ville. Turn right into the centre of town, past the main shops and town square. Turn right at the traffic lights marked for Neris le Bains, and then right at the next set of lights. Stay in the right hand land and keep straight on. At the lights with a patisserie in front of you, the main road bears left, you keep straight on signed for Marcillat. There is also an Intermarche at Commentry which is open on Sunday mornings. Take the Montlucon road and turn right at the Commentry sign. Go in through the town taking the road out for Montlucon and you will see Intermarche signed. It's the other side of the town and turn right at the indicated lights.

 

Montlucon: This the nearest large town. It has two distinct areas - Ville Gozet where all the large supermarkets are and the old town which has smaller, more expensive, shops. You can park down the side of Monoprix in the large square, pay parking depending on the time spent. The railway station is at the bottom of this road. The area around the chateau is pedestrianised and has a street full of restaurants. It's a great place to simply wander round and if you are looking for interesting objects d'art you could visit the Bleu de Chine which is conveniently opposite the oldest bar in Montlucon where you can sit outside with a drink and a sandwich. You will find a town guide in the information in the Salon. There are lots of places to eat from simple cafes to expensive restaurants and you will find information in the salon on many of them.

- Neris Les Bains is our local spa town, approximately 20minutes drive away. A miniature version of Vichy it has lovely parks and gardens, café's specialising in ice cream, and the best cake shops in the area. These are on the main street opposite the square where there is a market on Sunday morning. There are tennis courts and bike hire. The information bureau is next to the roundabout on the main road and has an excellent range of leaflets. They also speak good English if you need help booking a spa treatment. For shopping there is a small ecomarche supermarket, specialist shops, and the casino for gambling. On Sundays throughout the summer there is usually live music in the park in front of the casino. If you want a really French experience you can go to the spa for a water treatment. Relaxing and fun, you can experience an individual therapy bath followed by a massage by a trained masseur. They have a range of treatments and prices, but massage is popular and you need to book ahead.

 

Markets: All the markets begin at 9am and end about 12.15pm. The Saturday market in Montlucon is in the old town and is very pretty; lots of flowers and organic fruit and vegetables.

- Neris les Bains - Sunday

- Montlucon - Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday

- St Eloy les Mines - Wednesday

- Marcillat - Thursday

- Commentry - Friday